Advice

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One the most fascinating things about people is our capacity to change and adapt. This is true on both fundamental and theoretical levels; time changes us all. Things that are important now, may be inconsequential in a year’s time. I Used to Be a Design Student: 50 Graphic Designers Then and Now by Billy Kiosoglou and Philippin Frank explores this element of change through the lens of graphic design by comparing the lifestyles of 50 graphic designers from their college years to now.

Comprised of interviews, work samples and comparative diagrams, the book illustrates the idiosyncrasies between college life and professional life. The work samples compare pieces from the designer’s time in college and current work, and each interview offers up a piece of advice and a warning.

I particularly like Richard Walker’s advice:

“Always finish your work”

and warning:

“Don’t feel obliged to have an opinion on everything. If you don’t know, say you don’t know.”

From the publisher:

“This book offers a rare chance to read what graphic designers feel about their education and profession. Fifty influential designers give the low-down about their student days and their professional lives. A piece of their college work is shown alongside an example of current work. Each designer also offers a key piece of advice and a warning, making this a must-read for anyone embarking on a career in design.

The book looks at the process a designer goes through in finding their ‘voice’. Topics addressed include how ideas are researched and developed; design and other cultural influences, then and now; positive and negative aspects of working as a designer; motivations for becoming a designer; and whether it’s really possible to teach design.”

UPDATE: The book is now available for checkout at the Flaxman Library.

(via Brain Pickings)

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Hopefully by now, if you’re in the BFA show this sprint, you’ve finished installing. We’ve printed a lot of it, and we’re excited to see it hanging on the walls.

Now its time to think about getting yourself some business cards and post cards. Business cards get your name and contact info the the pockets of possible future business contacts and gallery owners. And we can print them for you too! We print business cards and postcards on 80lb cardstock paper. And they only take 24 hours!

The Service Bureau offers templates for printing business cards or postcards with us. Templates make the whole printing process easier. Using our template, 250 double sided full color business cards on a matte finish cardstock only cost $37 (which is a steal).

The business card template puts 8 standard size business cards on a letter sized piece of paper. The post card template puts two postcards on an letter sized piece of paper. Follow the link below to download the template and instructions.

http://crit.artic.edu/servicebureau/templates.html

There is an Indesign, Illustrator, and Photoshop version of each template, so you can use whatever program you are most comfortable with. Be sure to read the directions carefully. Each version of our templates will have a “YOUR ARTWORK” layer. That is where your business/post card design should go. When working in Indesign or Illustrator, the template layers are set so that when you export your file as a PDF they won’t show up. In Photoshop you will have to delete the template (but not the crop mark) layer before exporting. If you are unfamiliar with the layers feature in any of these programs come talk to us and we can help you out.

Good luck with your big night! We will see you there!

-k

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You may need a currency converter to really grasp the difference.

(via Digital Photography School)

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We use a special version of the Linux open-source operating system called Enhanced Machine Controller to control our DIYLILCNC.  The EMC team recently released an updated version of their Linux distribution.  To celebrate, I’ve written this how-to explaining how easy it is to set up a cheap Linux PC for controlling CNC devices like the DIYLILCNC.

One aspect of CNC control that is sometimes a challenge is the need for a parallel port (also known as DB-25 or COM port); many newer machines do not come with on-board parallel ports. Luckily, Newegg carries some great cheap barebones computer systems with on-board parallel ports.  Here’s the hardware that I spec’ed for this project:

Since I don’t believe in wasting money on an optical drive, we’ll just install the operating system via USB.  Don’t worry, it’s easy!  You’ll need a 1 gigabyte (or more) USB flash drive as well as a Windows or Linux machine to set up the installer.

Ready? Here we go…

Part 1: Set up a USB Flash Drive as a Linux Boot Disc

 

 

Step 1: Download EMC

Step 1: Download EMC/Linux 10.04 Live CD ISO from linuxcnc.org.

 

Download the newest version (10.04 at the time this was written) of EMC from http://linuxcnc.org. You can use an older version if you want, but you’ll need to go through extra steps that aren’t covered here.

 

 

Step 2: Download UNetbootin

Step 2: Download UNetbootin

 

Download UNetbootin, a program that lets you set up a USB flash drive as a Linux boot disc.

 

 

Step 3: Find the Drive Letter of Your USB Flash Drive

Step 3: Find the Drive Letter of Your USB Flash Drive

 

Plug in your USB drive and find the letter identifier, usually listed under My Computer in Windows. In the example, it’s J:.

 

 

Step 4: Run UNetbootin.

Step 4: Run UNetbootin.

 

In UNetbootin, select the EMC ISO as the Diskimage, and select your USB Drive letter. Hit OK, and UNetbootin will process for a while. When you are prompted to restart, exit the program and eject your USB drive.

Part 2: Build Your Computer

When you’re working with any kind of electronics, you want to take care to avoid static discharge which could fry various important components. If you do a lot of computer building/breakdowns, you may want to invest in an antistatic wrist strap.  At the very least, try to touch something that’s grounded before handling unshielded components.

 

 

Step 5: Gather Your Parts (RAM, Hard Drive, Barebones Case & Motherboard)

Step 5: Gather Your Parts (RAM, Hard Drive, Barebones Case & Motherboard)

 

 

 

Step 6: Remove the Side Panel by Loosening the Screw on the Back.

Step 6: Remove the Side Panel by Loosening the Screw on the Back.

 

 

 

Step 7: Remove the Front Panel by Unhooking the Plastic Tabs on Top.

Step 7: Remove the Front Panel by Unhooking the Plastic Tabs on Top.

 

 

 

Step 8: Remove Both Screws on the Front Panel

Step 8: Remove Both Screws on the Front Panel

 

 

 

Step 9: Lift the Interior Panel Back and Up.

Step 9: Lift the Interior Panel Back and Up.

 

 

 

Step 10: Now You're Ready to Put the Parts in!

Step 10: Now You're Ready to Put the Parts in!

 

 

 

Step 11: Insert the RAM.

Step 11: Insert the RAM.

 

 

 

Step 12: Insert the Hard Drive.

Step 12: Insert the Hard Drive.

 

The hard drive sits in the front of the case, and attaches with a screw. It’s actually easier to insert & screw in first, then attach cables, despite what the picture shows.

 

 

Step 13: Attach the Power and SATA Cables to the Hard Drive

Step 13: Attach the Power and SATA Cables to the Hard Drive

 

Thats it! Close the case back up and start plugging in the power, monitor, keyboard & mouse.

Part 3: Installing Linux from a USB Flash Drive

Once your case is reassembled, plug in your monitor, keyboard, mouse and power.  Also plug in the flash drive you set up with UNetbooting in Part 1.

Now turn it on!

 

 

Step 14: At the Boot Screen, Hit 'Esc'.

Step 14: At the Boot Screen, Hit 'Esc'.

 

 

 

Step 15: Select USB as the Boot Device

Step 15: Select USB as the Boot Device

 

 

 

Step 16: Use the Default Options in the UNetbootin Menu

Step 16: Use the Default Options in the UNetbootin Menu

 

 

 

Step 17: Ubuntu Installer Boots from the USB Drive

Step 17: Ubuntu Installer Boots from the USB Drive

 

 

 

Step 18: Click the Install Icon on the Desktop

Step 18: Click the Install Icon on the Desktop

 

 

 

Step 19: Follow the Prompts, and Ubuntu will Install

Step 19: Follow the Prompts, and Ubuntu will Install

 

After installing, you’ll need to remove the thumb drive and reboot.

Part 4: Configuring Enhanced Machine Controller for CNC Control

Restart you Linux box, and you’ll be ready to setup configurations for a CNC device. In this example, we’ll plug in settings for the DIYLILCNC.

 

 

Step 20: Run a Latency Test

Step 20: Run a Latency Test

 

While you run the latency test, you should do things that tax the computer, for example typing ‘glxgears’ in the Terminal. Let the test run for a few minutes.

 

 

Step 21: The Lower Middle Number is What you Want.

Step 21: The Lower Middle Number is What you Want.

 

 

 

Step 22: Run Stepconf Wizard

Step 22: Run Stepconf Wizard & Create a New Configuration.

 

 

 

Step 23: Basic Machine Info

Step 23: Basic Machine Info

 

 

 

Step 24: Parallel Port Setup

Step 24: Parallel Port Setup

 

 

 

Step 25: X Axis Configuration.

Step 25: X Axis Configuration.

 

 

 

Step 26: Y Axis Configuration.

Step 26: Y Axis Configuration.

 

 

 

Step 27: Z Axis Configuration.

Step 27: Z Axis Configuration.

 

 

 

Step 28: Advanced Configuration Options. Leave these blank!

Step 28: Advanced Configuration Options. Leave these blank!

 

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I recently had the chance to test a new plugin for Rhino called RhinoNest. This is an amazing plugin that allows you to select contours from your 3d object and automatically lay them out. It’s very useful if you plan on laser cutting any object you’ve modeled by need quick and accurate contours extracted. Here’s a walk-through of what I ended up doing

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Select your object you wish to slice up. Select ‘Slice 3D’ from the RhinoNest-Tools menu.

robot slice 3d
Enter the distance you want the contours. At this stage you can also select the “Type”. “Type” will select how RhinoNest displays layer numbers. You can select ‘dots’, filled ‘text’ or ‘single stroke text’. In this case I selected “SingleStrokeText” which will allow me to laser cut the labels.

robot distance contours

Once you complete that operation RhinoNest will lay out all the layers side by side. Manually going through those to put them in an organized fashion could be tedious. Luckily there is a quick way to sort this out.

robot curves lay out

Here is what the robot model looks like. It makes 2 sets of curves. A set is flattened for cutting and the second set is left on the model for reference.

robot model

At this point we want to organize our layers so it will make it easier to cut. We can do that with the RhinoNest Wizard. This is available from the RhinoNest menu and selecting “Optimize Object Position”. Once the dialogue box pops up, choose “Select objects”

robot select objects

In the command line it will ask you to select the curves you wish to optimize. In this case I want to optimize all my curves.

robot select curves

All curves are selected. I hit enter once they are selected and hit escape to get back to the dialogue box.

robot curves selected

With the curves selected the dialogue should mention how many objects are selected. In my case, 52. Hit the next button.

robot objects selected

Now RhinoNest wants to know what type of sheet to lay the pieces onto. We don’t have any loaded stock so just select “Unique Sheet” for now.

robot unique

Define your sheet size. In this case I’m using 32”x18” or in other words, the size of the laser cutter bed. Once specified, select ‘Next’.

robot size

Now it’s time to let RhinoNest how far we want these parts spaced apart. I want them at least a ¼” from each piece and ¼” from the edge of the sheet. I’ve also selected “Freedom” to be set to “Free” This allows RhinoNest to freely rotate pieces in order to get them to fit onto your stock. If you leave it ‘fixed’ it may not fit all pieces on one board

robot distance

In the last dialogue window, select ‘execute’. If it all went well you should see “Nesting successful”.  Click “next” and “finish”.

robot complete

Now we have all of our pieces neatly laid out on one piece of stock measuring 32”x18”. Notice some pieces may overlap or extend past the edge but this can easily be fixed by moving some around. Either way it’s so much easier doing it this way than doing it manually.

robot 18x32

Now that these objects are all properly laid out we can export them into an format that Illustrator can read and laser cut. Once laser cut just assemble and this is the end result.

05-25-10_1049

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Take a look at tomorrow’s schedule. Starting to look pretty busy? Well it only gets worse as finals come up. You can expect the laser cutters to be booked back to back. So if you’re looking to do some laser cutting for a final project you might want to start thinking about making some reservations. Remember, you can make a reservation 2 weeks in advance!

Schedule as of right now for tomorrow 12/2/09

The minimum amount of time needed for a reservation is 3 hours, but as finals come up, you may not have any time slots to be filled with that minimum amount of time.

-Mike

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Start your art-school-induced indentured servitude early! The AOC can fabricate lots of neat items digitally, allowing for a tidy profit in the online marketplace. (These images come from examples on Etsy, not from AOC-produced projects)

Laser Cutting

RachelClowes's Laser Cut Felt Statement Necklace

Rachel Clowes's Laser Cut Felt Statement Necklace

AoifeFey's Laser Cut Chess Set

Aoifefey's Laser Cut Chess Set

Rapid Prototyping

nervoussystem's Porous Bracelet

nervoussystem's Porous Bracelet

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How’s your Etsy store doing? Have you adequately monetized your art school education yet? Well why not? The Service Bureau can help. Here are a few of the things we can do:

Vinyl Graphics. (selling for: $13.00 / do it at the Bureau for: $4.00)

Buttons. (this item’s actually a good deal at $1.00 for 8 buttons, but make them at the Bureau for $0.25 and charge more)

Inkjet Prints. Duh. (selling for $14.00 + $6.00 S&H / make it at the Bureau for $4.22)

Sketchbooks and other books. (selling for $18 + $4.50 S&H / make it at the Bureau for $1.50)

Check it out. Look at what these things are going for and then look how much we charge.

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strip

Why print a test strip?  Why add an extra day to your turnaround time?  I can answer that with one word… control. Usually, when you bring an image to an outside lab, you drop off your file, tell them what you want and hope it comes out correct. At the Service Bureauwhen you make a test strip, we give you the opportunity to tweak the file any way you want. We put the ultimate control over the outcome of the file in your hands. This in turn gives us more time to fine tune our ever growing stable of technology allowing for a greater quality of print.

Everybody wins!

So print a test strip and take control over the outcome of your output.

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